Fishing the Central Tablelands District

Two types of streams are available. The first type is the slightly small river located at the headwaters of some of the famous rivers of the area. The second is the slower lower down river sections best exemplified by the Tarana area of the Fish River all the way down to the Macquarie River and below

Options: For the smaller type stream be aware of two major things in fishing them. The first is the highly visible nature of small streams - especially if they have high banks. It is a case of stay out of sight, stay out of sight ……. etc etc. The second is very similar to the first except there is a little more latitude in being able to stay out of sight. Wading can become an important part of fishing this wider type of water, though you still need to be very aware that even wading can betray your presence.

Access: Nearly all water is located on private land - be careful and ask permission. Thank landowners as usual with whatever you feel appropriate.

Flies: For fly selection, split the seasons into something that can give you some useful guidelines. Early season spring/summer Summer/late summer Autumn/late season This is the usual bunfight, however I hope I can give some reasonable guidelines for you to use. Dries - there are the usual nondescripts available and some of the best are as follows -

Early season/summer Fish are in a feeding mood during this time coming out of winter. If the weather is with you they can be good fishing with water levels up and most fish not yet worrying about the height of the sun, shadows on the water etc Dries such as mayfly patterns red tag, geehi beetle royal wulffs, adams all work well, particularly if you have confidence in the fly Nymphs fished upstream are also almost a sure bet at this time - unweighted green and brown, and in some faster sections use weighted nymphs to get down

Summer/mid summer This time can be particularly challenging and if ever there was a time to be careful about your profile, this is it. Flies such as downstream wets, nymphs and dries fished fine and far off with as little disturbance from wading, fly lines in the air and fished in the shadows to rising fish are almost the only way to go Hoppers can be good at this time - look on the banks for live hoppers

Autumn For the dedicated dry fly fisher this is the best time provided the water levels are still okay. The autumn is split in two sections - early (March to mid April) and late (mid April to seasons end) Weather tends to be calm. The sun is lower in the sky and fish are not so reticent about feeding mid day Fish are feeding up prior to winter/ spawning. They feed mostly during "gentlemen's hours" 10am - 4pm approx. Free rising is usually the order of the day.

Gear: Rods I usually like shorter rods from 7'6" down although I use one at 8', but whatever your preference, get used to being able to cast as though it is second nature, keeping the rod/line out of sight. Some wider sections of the lower parts of the Fish River can require a longer rod from the perspective of getting away from the bank, and clearing tree lined banks. If wading deep, a longer rod is useful in keeping the line off the water Longer rods also assist by keeping fish away from the bank and underwater snags when trying to land them Shorter rods exert more control over fish under most circumstances

Lines: Dye them - using fabric dyes obtainable from your local chemist. Olive green works with most original line colours to give them either a neutral green or brown colour

Casting ability: Learn the "flick presentation". That is, check the line with your line hand just before the line fully extends on the final presentation shoot. This will flick the fly over and down, ensuring the fly is the first to touch on the water (before the leader/ line). Learn this also for the side cast, enabling you to get in behind obstacles, or allowing for differing cross stream current flows. Learn to cast both hands False casting In a word - don't!! The single cast (lift off and presentation) can be crucial to success. Lift off, (ensure you haul) backcast, forward, shoot and present! The best way of spooking calm water fish is for them to see the fly and/or line flicking back and forth 3 or 4 times while the angler tries to ensure they have right range, before they present the fly. Keep it to a minimum, or if you cant, cast in another direction away from the fish, until enough line is out, then switch direction and present.

Streamcraft: Streamcraft is all about "observation". Get used to looking at and analysing your surroundings. As you progress, so you learn. The more you learn the more proficient you become. There are two basic types of stream to cover here. Rapid runs and smooth placid sections. Shallow rapid runs are best fished when the sun is off them. Only small fry are silly enough to feed in a run during bright sunlit hours Blind fishing in runs can be productive. Check their depth, where the fish would be most comfortable and where flight to safety is easiest. Check for rises and don't assume that a rise above a run means there are no fish at the bottom of the run Use buoyant dries or nymphs Same with currents flowing past deep undercut banks - fish every inch of them. The second section is smooth flowing sections. They can look deceiving as being relatively slow, however, they can have quite a good flow of water and varying current speed to confuse the presentation of flies Blind fishing is usually pointless. Watch and fish for working fish If a fish is working, watch for it's beat. In slower or smoother water they always have a beat. One section (downstream) of the beat usually involves the fish turning and facing the angler before they head off upstream again. Be careful. Timing here is important. Placing the fly 6 feet behind a rise when the fish is heading the other way is pointless and can spook a fish. Some time can be spent getting the presentation right. The fish needs to see the fly before it inspects and takes it. I have often taken 20 minutes to present the fly 4 times before the fish has seen and taken the fly. Fish in sections with shade, undercut banks in shade, in other words, in cover. Strike slowly! Slow water - slow take, wait for the fish to turn down

Drag free drifting: Current variation is the biggest worry on wider rivers. On a 15 metre cast, a fly line may lie on 3 or more sections of varying current speeds The answer is usually position of the angler in relation to the cast and/or fish. Work out where you need to be in order to get a drag free drift over the fish.

Wading: Wading is a two edged sword. Great for getting to fish in the middle of a 20 metre wide section, but great also for scaring fish. Crunchy gravel/sandy bottoms can be deadly. Water transmits sound like a megaphone, and in some sections, the second your foot touches the gravel on the edge of the water, the fish evaporate.

Fish fighting in tight spaces: Use sidestrain, and use it a lot. Both rainbows and browns can quickly head for safety in roots and underwater obstructions. With sidestrain, the fish's undulating swimming movement assists your side pressure effort for 50% of his flight as he undulates in the direction of the pressure.

Catch & release: Use it! Be discretionary and careful about how much fight/stress you put fish through, and be careful about the release. Ensure the fish is not lifted out of the water (use the net), is gaining strength and breathing properly before release. I have used barbless hooks for about 20 years and cant really say I have lost fish from their use, in any circumstances. They really help with keeping stress levels in the fish down when practicing catch and release.